Crate Training
We all need a special place to call our own—a sanctuary of sorts. Your dog is no different. Part of raising a healthy dog
is providing her with her own “safe haven,” and crates can be a good solution for many dogs and puppies. Crates can also provide safe confinement for car and airline travel, and may be encountered when your dog is housed at the veterinary hospital, boarding kennel, or groomer.
Crate training can be extremely helpful for housetraining puppies and for ensuring that they have a safe place where no one can disturb them. Crates can also protect puppies from household risks (e.g., rambunctious children, electrical cords, open doors, less tolerant older pets) when the puppy is not able to be supervised.
Dogs who enjoyed having a crate as a puppy may appreciate one as they age, as it may provide them with a safe, quiet spot, even if the door is left open. Dogs who are ill or injured may benefit from crates during recovery.
Crates are ideal for many dogs, but may not be suitable for others. Some dogs become distressed or panic in crates. For these dogs, compelling them to stay in a crate leads to more stress. Before dogs are routinely placed in crates, it is important to understand whether this tool will be appropriate for them.
Crate training needs to be done correctly to be helpful to the dog. Crates should never be used as a substitute for proper supervision and exercise. Any dog of any age who is crated for any reason must have sufficient social interaction with people and other animals, opportunities to exercise both mentally and physically, and adequate access to bathroom breaks.
Benefits of Crate Training for You and Your Dog
There can be numerous benefits to crate training your dog:
Finally, many emergency plans now allow anyone who needs to evacuate to take their dogs and cats with them, if the dogs and cats are able to be housed in crates in public spaces. However, if you are using a crate to prevent destruction or elimination in the house by an adult dog. please consider a dog walker, pet sitter, or doggie daycare while you learn why the dog is destroying or eliminating in the house. These are not normal behaviors and suggest that the dog needs behavioral guidance.
How to Choose a Crate
Numerous styles of crates exist. Wire crates may or may not collapse and are primarily suited for car travel, shows,
housetraining puppies, or use as permanent safe havens for dogs who enjoy having a clearly defined spot of their own. Many wire crates come with removable trays that can be cleaned if the dog spills food or water or soils the crate with urine or feces. (If the dog soils the crate with urine or feces more than rarely, the dog is being left alone in the crate too long.) Plastic crates are ideal for dogs who like more privacy. Plastic crates are sturdier than metal crates and may be better for some types of shows (they provide some protection from the weather) or some
travel situations. Plastic crates that meet the recently enhanced safety standards for airline flight are required for plane travel. Fabric crates are ideal as emergency crates for dogs who will not dig or chew through them, are wonderful for local travel and many shows, and collapse easily. Fabric crates are lightweight and cannot be used to support dogs during transport. Look for a crate that is large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around in, including stretching her head and neck up and out—even when she is full grown. Be sure to replace the crate as your puppy grows. Provide the type of
bedding on which your dog likes to nap. Ensure the crate is sufficiently well padded, especially if the dog Is ill, older, or traveling in a vehicle over rough terrain, Ensure that the crate is protected from drafts. For puppies, ensure that they cannot reach through any openings in the crate to drag anything into the crate to play with or chew on, potentially causing
illness or injury. Bedding for puppies should be made of materials that the puppy cannot chew or ingest, as this may present an intestinal obstruction risk. Bedding should always be washable (and washed when soiled) and replaced as needed.
If your dog must be left alone for more than four hours at a time, consider a pen or dog-proofed room for confinement rather than a crate. Exercise pens can be adjusted into a variety of shapes and sizes and can often be combined with gate systems designed to keep dogs from areas risky for them. Exercise pens, which may not have roofs, are lightweight and will not confine a determined dog, but may benefit growing puppies or dogs who dislike the enclosed nature of a crate, but like some protection or containment. If your only need is to keep your dog in one region of the house or out of another, there are fairly creative gate systems that will provide such protection while also containing the dog in a way that provides more
freedom and mental stimulation.
Location, Location, Location
Because dogs are social, the ideal location for crates used in training and to protect puppies during busy times is in a room where your family spends a lot of time, such as the kitchen, den, or bedroom. Avoid placing the crate in an isolated laundry or furnace room—unless this is the dog's chosen place because it’s the only place that is quiet. Older dogs or dogs who may like their crate as a personal haven may prefer less social or busy places. Your dog will let you know—if the door is left open and the dog uses the crate, she likes it. If the dog is alone, music, television, or a white-noise machine may help calm your dog and mask noises that may trigger barking. Finally, never use the crate for punishment. Dogs will learn to avoid places used for punishment, and isolation can be stressful for members of social species.
Training Puppies
If you decide to use a crate to help train your puppy, introduce your puppy to the crate as soon as possible and allow the dog to explore and enter the crate on her own. Praise her when she goes in and plays with a toy or eats a treat. Start feeding her in the crate with the door open. Then, when she seems comfortable in the crate, begin to close the door for increasingly longer periods, ensuring she does not become distressed. With practice, your puppy will learn to associate going into her crate with a request to do so ("go in your house”; “kennel up”).
The first confinement session should be after a period of play, exercise, and elimination (when she is ready to take a nap or quietly play with a toy). Place your puppy in her crate with a treat and a toy and close the door. Leave the room but remain close enough to hear her. You can expect some distress the first few times your puppy is separated from family members, but she should soon settle down if she Is tired. Never reward the pup by letting her out when she cries or whines. Instead, ignore her until the crying stops and release her before it starts again. If your puppy still won't settle in her crate, make sure that you have chosen a time when she has had sufficient play and exercise and that she has recently eliminated so she is ready to relax or nap.
If young puppies are tired and happy when introduced to their crate, a toy and a treat in a quiet place will be at its most appealing. Check periodically for signs of distress, and if she is asleep or just quiet, tell her she is very good. Then, after a short period, open the door and allow her to come out if she wishes. The next time, she can spend longer in the crate before being let out. When the puppy is happy to be left for at least two hours without showing any signs of distress, you can leave the puppy for that amount of time. Remember, puppies need to eliminate frequently, especially after eating, awakening, or prolonged, vigorous exercise. Young puppies need to eliminate every hour or two when awake. The puppy
will thrive if you manage to meet the needs of this schedule when training your pup to use a crate.
If at any point the puppy becomes very distressed and crying does not diminish over five to ten minutes, or it worsens, or the puppy destroys bedding, panics and upsets food and water dishes, or tries to escape the crate by chewing or digging, let her out of the crate. Try again when she is calm. If the dog either continues to exhibit the same level of distress or the distress worsens, crating her is not recommended and may contribute to the development of anxiety.
If you have a regular routine for when your dog goes to her crate, she may soon begin to enter voluntarily when it's time to rest or to play with a toy. If your puppy shows no signs of distress in the crate and enters it happily, you can allow the dog to nap or play in the crate when you can't supervise her directly.
Training Adult Dogs
Adults can be trained to use crates in the same way as puppies, but remember that dogs who have been overly confined or entrapped may never feel comfortable in a crate. Some puppies may never learn to love a crate. Identifying who will and will not do well in a crate can help you meet your dog's needs in a kind manner throughout her life. If your dog needs to be hospitalized, be sure to tell your veterinary team whether your dog is comfortable in a crate, as this information will help
determine how best to manage your dog in the hospital.
is providing her with her own “safe haven,” and crates can be a good solution for many dogs and puppies. Crates can also provide safe confinement for car and airline travel, and may be encountered when your dog is housed at the veterinary hospital, boarding kennel, or groomer.
Crate training can be extremely helpful for housetraining puppies and for ensuring that they have a safe place where no one can disturb them. Crates can also protect puppies from household risks (e.g., rambunctious children, electrical cords, open doors, less tolerant older pets) when the puppy is not able to be supervised.
Dogs who enjoyed having a crate as a puppy may appreciate one as they age, as it may provide them with a safe, quiet spot, even if the door is left open. Dogs who are ill or injured may benefit from crates during recovery.
Crates are ideal for many dogs, but may not be suitable for others. Some dogs become distressed or panic in crates. For these dogs, compelling them to stay in a crate leads to more stress. Before dogs are routinely placed in crates, it is important to understand whether this tool will be appropriate for them.
Crate training needs to be done correctly to be helpful to the dog. Crates should never be used as a substitute for proper supervision and exercise. Any dog of any age who is crated for any reason must have sufficient social interaction with people and other animals, opportunities to exercise both mentally and physically, and adequate access to bathroom breaks.
Benefits of Crate Training for You and Your Dog
There can be numerous benefits to crate training your dog:
- Security for your dog
- Safety for your dog
- Prevention of household damage by puppies or by adult dogs who become distressed when left in a open environment (chewing, inappropriate elimination, etc.)
- Help with housetraining
- Preparation for travel or boarding, and spending time alone
- Acclimation for sport or show events, many of which require that dogs are crated
Finally, many emergency plans now allow anyone who needs to evacuate to take their dogs and cats with them, if the dogs and cats are able to be housed in crates in public spaces. However, if you are using a crate to prevent destruction or elimination in the house by an adult dog. please consider a dog walker, pet sitter, or doggie daycare while you learn why the dog is destroying or eliminating in the house. These are not normal behaviors and suggest that the dog needs behavioral guidance.
How to Choose a Crate
Numerous styles of crates exist. Wire crates may or may not collapse and are primarily suited for car travel, shows,
housetraining puppies, or use as permanent safe havens for dogs who enjoy having a clearly defined spot of their own. Many wire crates come with removable trays that can be cleaned if the dog spills food or water or soils the crate with urine or feces. (If the dog soils the crate with urine or feces more than rarely, the dog is being left alone in the crate too long.) Plastic crates are ideal for dogs who like more privacy. Plastic crates are sturdier than metal crates and may be better for some types of shows (they provide some protection from the weather) or some
travel situations. Plastic crates that meet the recently enhanced safety standards for airline flight are required for plane travel. Fabric crates are ideal as emergency crates for dogs who will not dig or chew through them, are wonderful for local travel and many shows, and collapse easily. Fabric crates are lightweight and cannot be used to support dogs during transport. Look for a crate that is large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around in, including stretching her head and neck up and out—even when she is full grown. Be sure to replace the crate as your puppy grows. Provide the type of
bedding on which your dog likes to nap. Ensure the crate is sufficiently well padded, especially if the dog Is ill, older, or traveling in a vehicle over rough terrain, Ensure that the crate is protected from drafts. For puppies, ensure that they cannot reach through any openings in the crate to drag anything into the crate to play with or chew on, potentially causing
illness or injury. Bedding for puppies should be made of materials that the puppy cannot chew or ingest, as this may present an intestinal obstruction risk. Bedding should always be washable (and washed when soiled) and replaced as needed.
If your dog must be left alone for more than four hours at a time, consider a pen or dog-proofed room for confinement rather than a crate. Exercise pens can be adjusted into a variety of shapes and sizes and can often be combined with gate systems designed to keep dogs from areas risky for them. Exercise pens, which may not have roofs, are lightweight and will not confine a determined dog, but may benefit growing puppies or dogs who dislike the enclosed nature of a crate, but like some protection or containment. If your only need is to keep your dog in one region of the house or out of another, there are fairly creative gate systems that will provide such protection while also containing the dog in a way that provides more
freedom and mental stimulation.
Location, Location, Location
Because dogs are social, the ideal location for crates used in training and to protect puppies during busy times is in a room where your family spends a lot of time, such as the kitchen, den, or bedroom. Avoid placing the crate in an isolated laundry or furnace room—unless this is the dog's chosen place because it’s the only place that is quiet. Older dogs or dogs who may like their crate as a personal haven may prefer less social or busy places. Your dog will let you know—if the door is left open and the dog uses the crate, she likes it. If the dog is alone, music, television, or a white-noise machine may help calm your dog and mask noises that may trigger barking. Finally, never use the crate for punishment. Dogs will learn to avoid places used for punishment, and isolation can be stressful for members of social species.
Training Puppies
If you decide to use a crate to help train your puppy, introduce your puppy to the crate as soon as possible and allow the dog to explore and enter the crate on her own. Praise her when she goes in and plays with a toy or eats a treat. Start feeding her in the crate with the door open. Then, when she seems comfortable in the crate, begin to close the door for increasingly longer periods, ensuring she does not become distressed. With practice, your puppy will learn to associate going into her crate with a request to do so ("go in your house”; “kennel up”).
The first confinement session should be after a period of play, exercise, and elimination (when she is ready to take a nap or quietly play with a toy). Place your puppy in her crate with a treat and a toy and close the door. Leave the room but remain close enough to hear her. You can expect some distress the first few times your puppy is separated from family members, but she should soon settle down if she Is tired. Never reward the pup by letting her out when she cries or whines. Instead, ignore her until the crying stops and release her before it starts again. If your puppy still won't settle in her crate, make sure that you have chosen a time when she has had sufficient play and exercise and that she has recently eliminated so she is ready to relax or nap.
If young puppies are tired and happy when introduced to their crate, a toy and a treat in a quiet place will be at its most appealing. Check periodically for signs of distress, and if she is asleep or just quiet, tell her she is very good. Then, after a short period, open the door and allow her to come out if she wishes. The next time, she can spend longer in the crate before being let out. When the puppy is happy to be left for at least two hours without showing any signs of distress, you can leave the puppy for that amount of time. Remember, puppies need to eliminate frequently, especially after eating, awakening, or prolonged, vigorous exercise. Young puppies need to eliminate every hour or two when awake. The puppy
will thrive if you manage to meet the needs of this schedule when training your pup to use a crate.
If at any point the puppy becomes very distressed and crying does not diminish over five to ten minutes, or it worsens, or the puppy destroys bedding, panics and upsets food and water dishes, or tries to escape the crate by chewing or digging, let her out of the crate. Try again when she is calm. If the dog either continues to exhibit the same level of distress or the distress worsens, crating her is not recommended and may contribute to the development of anxiety.
If you have a regular routine for when your dog goes to her crate, she may soon begin to enter voluntarily when it's time to rest or to play with a toy. If your puppy shows no signs of distress in the crate and enters it happily, you can allow the dog to nap or play in the crate when you can't supervise her directly.
Training Adult Dogs
Adults can be trained to use crates in the same way as puppies, but remember that dogs who have been overly confined or entrapped may never feel comfortable in a crate. Some puppies may never learn to love a crate. Identifying who will and will not do well in a crate can help you meet your dog's needs in a kind manner throughout her life. If your dog needs to be hospitalized, be sure to tell your veterinary team whether your dog is comfortable in a crate, as this information will help
determine how best to manage your dog in the hospital.