Managing Fearful Dogs
Dogs can become fearful of people because of inadequate handling and exposure during the first few months of life (see also our brochure “The Social Scene”), previous unpleasant experiences with people, medical problems, or genetics. No matter what the cause, the goal is to teach your dog to be relaxed around people and enjoy their company. You can do
this by carefully controlling interactions with unfamiliar people so your dog is less likely to feel threatened and
more likely to relax and have a positive experience
What Not to Do
Don’t make the mistake of forcing your dog into social situations. He needs to gradually learn to feel comfortable around people. Encouraging visitors to approach or reach for a dog that is fearful only makes matters worse. Even if your dog allows strangers to pet him, it doesn’t mean he enjoys it. If your dog feels trapped because he is on a tight leash or can’t escape when someone approaches, he might become aggressive. If you try to console him when he growls, you may inadvertently reinforce the aggressive behavior if he is uncertain whether he is being threatened.
Since the goal is to change the association from fear to something that is positive (known as “counterconditioning”), any unpleasant encounter can worsen the problem. Don't raise your voice or yell and never use physical punishment or harsh corrections such as pinning; using a pinch, prong, or choke collar; or hitting. Although punishment may temporarily stop
the undesirable behavior, it will only heighten your dog's fear and anxiety.
During the initial stages of training, keep your dog away from situations that might make him anxious. For example, avoid crowded areas during walks and confine him to a quiet room during noisy social gatherings in your home.
Control Social Situations
The first thing you can do to make your dog feel more comfortable is to instruct visitors how to act around him. The
less threatening the person appears, the better. Most dogs are more comfortable if visitors avoid prolonged eye contact, keep hands to their sides, and allow the dog to come to them. A quiet tone of voice and slow body movements are also important.
Your dog may also feel less threatened if he can avoid the situation. Too much tension on the leash or holding the dog tightly will likely make him more nervous. Be sure you have adequate control and keep enough distance between your dog
and unfamiliar people to ensure safety and keep your dog calm. Your dog also takes his cues from you, so if you are anxious
or nervous, you should avoid stressful situations until you are comfortable and able to calm your dog.
Help Your Dog Relax with People
To lessen your dog's anxiety, you need to repeatedly associate something very positive with the presence of people. Special
food treats can help your dog warm up to people. Be sure to select treats or bits of food that he thinks are absolutely
delicious. Small pieces of meat, cheese, or freeze-dried liver are good choices for most dogs. When you are asking your
dog to work especially hard at overcoming things that stress him, like meeting unfamiliar people, make sure you use the treats he likes best.
Getting Started
If your dog is extremely anxious around people, begin where he is most comfortable—perhaps in your home or yard. Be
certain that he is reward-trained to sit and relax when requested. Please remember the second part—relax. Dogs can be
obedient while still quite distressed. Dogs learn best if they are calm (see also our brochure “Basic Training”). Next, begin exposure training by setting up a greeting with a friend or relative with whom your dog is unfamiliar. Have the person stand at a far enough distance that your dog is relaxed and shows no sign of anxiety. Ask your dog to sit when he first notices the person and give him a special treat. Then have the person move a step closer. Give your dog another treat if he stays relaxed.
The person should gradually approach while you continue giving treats. If your dog begins to show any sign of tension (for example, if he won't take his eyes off the person, seems agitated, shows less interest in the treats, or responds more slowly to the command), the person can move sideways instead of forward, if your dog takes the food and settles down, the person can then move forward again. The exercise should go so slowly that the dog should show no sign of anxiety, such as trembling, pulling away, or whining anxiously. Be prepared to stop the session before your dog shows any signs of distress.
The goal is to end on a positive note and begin the next session at a distance that elicits no sign of anxiety in your dog, until eventually he relaxes and takes treats from the visitor.
Improving Control and Safety
Consider the use of a head halter and leash if you need more control, especially if your dog shows any signs of aggression. Head halters are an effective way to control the position of your dog's eyes and head. You should release the tension when he is calm. Confine your dog to a room or crate before your company arrives. You can then bring your dog out wearing the head halter to begin the introduction process. Once your dog is comfortable with the
exposure exercises in your home, practice at the homes of various friends, and then in a wide variety of situations.
Making Progress Step by Step
Once your dog learns to accept unfamiliar people who move slowly and calmly, he should gradually be introduced to similar but progressively more challenging situations, including quicker movements and various tones of voice used by the person who is approaching. If there is risk of aggression, seek the assistance of a veterinary behaviorist before starting
these exercises.
Specific things about a person may make a dog anxious, such as beards, glasses, hats, carried objects, uniforms, canes, wheelchairs, and tone of voice. Pay attention to what makes your dog most anxious and avoid these stimuli in your initial training sessions. For example, if your dog is especially afraid of beards and glasses, wait until he is comfortable with people without beards and glasses before including them in the conditioning sessions. Slowly add accessories such as hats, large purses, sunglasses, and backpacks, and gradually change the type of person (for example, from a man with a beard to a woman with a walker).
If your dog is overly fearful or anxious, antianxiety medications, natural supplements, or pheromones may help him to be less distressed and to become happier and calmer. Discuss these options with your veterinarian.
Preventing the Fear of People
In most cases, dogs will not become fearful of people if they have ample opportunities to experience and interact with a wide variety of people under nonfearful conditions during the first few months of life, are frequently handled in a gentle manner, and are raised without harsh training techniques or physical punishment. Enrolling in puppy classes can be an
excellent way to ensure exposure to a variety of people, dogs, and environments. Puppies as young as eight weeks of age can and should be enrolled in classes designed for them and given by trainers who use only positive methods and avoid restraint and fear.
this by carefully controlling interactions with unfamiliar people so your dog is less likely to feel threatened and
more likely to relax and have a positive experience
What Not to Do
Don’t make the mistake of forcing your dog into social situations. He needs to gradually learn to feel comfortable around people. Encouraging visitors to approach or reach for a dog that is fearful only makes matters worse. Even if your dog allows strangers to pet him, it doesn’t mean he enjoys it. If your dog feels trapped because he is on a tight leash or can’t escape when someone approaches, he might become aggressive. If you try to console him when he growls, you may inadvertently reinforce the aggressive behavior if he is uncertain whether he is being threatened.
Since the goal is to change the association from fear to something that is positive (known as “counterconditioning”), any unpleasant encounter can worsen the problem. Don't raise your voice or yell and never use physical punishment or harsh corrections such as pinning; using a pinch, prong, or choke collar; or hitting. Although punishment may temporarily stop
the undesirable behavior, it will only heighten your dog's fear and anxiety.
During the initial stages of training, keep your dog away from situations that might make him anxious. For example, avoid crowded areas during walks and confine him to a quiet room during noisy social gatherings in your home.
Control Social Situations
The first thing you can do to make your dog feel more comfortable is to instruct visitors how to act around him. The
less threatening the person appears, the better. Most dogs are more comfortable if visitors avoid prolonged eye contact, keep hands to their sides, and allow the dog to come to them. A quiet tone of voice and slow body movements are also important.
Your dog may also feel less threatened if he can avoid the situation. Too much tension on the leash or holding the dog tightly will likely make him more nervous. Be sure you have adequate control and keep enough distance between your dog
and unfamiliar people to ensure safety and keep your dog calm. Your dog also takes his cues from you, so if you are anxious
or nervous, you should avoid stressful situations until you are comfortable and able to calm your dog.
Help Your Dog Relax with People
To lessen your dog's anxiety, you need to repeatedly associate something very positive with the presence of people. Special
food treats can help your dog warm up to people. Be sure to select treats or bits of food that he thinks are absolutely
delicious. Small pieces of meat, cheese, or freeze-dried liver are good choices for most dogs. When you are asking your
dog to work especially hard at overcoming things that stress him, like meeting unfamiliar people, make sure you use the treats he likes best.
Getting Started
If your dog is extremely anxious around people, begin where he is most comfortable—perhaps in your home or yard. Be
certain that he is reward-trained to sit and relax when requested. Please remember the second part—relax. Dogs can be
obedient while still quite distressed. Dogs learn best if they are calm (see also our brochure “Basic Training”). Next, begin exposure training by setting up a greeting with a friend or relative with whom your dog is unfamiliar. Have the person stand at a far enough distance that your dog is relaxed and shows no sign of anxiety. Ask your dog to sit when he first notices the person and give him a special treat. Then have the person move a step closer. Give your dog another treat if he stays relaxed.
The person should gradually approach while you continue giving treats. If your dog begins to show any sign of tension (for example, if he won't take his eyes off the person, seems agitated, shows less interest in the treats, or responds more slowly to the command), the person can move sideways instead of forward, if your dog takes the food and settles down, the person can then move forward again. The exercise should go so slowly that the dog should show no sign of anxiety, such as trembling, pulling away, or whining anxiously. Be prepared to stop the session before your dog shows any signs of distress.
The goal is to end on a positive note and begin the next session at a distance that elicits no sign of anxiety in your dog, until eventually he relaxes and takes treats from the visitor.
Improving Control and Safety
Consider the use of a head halter and leash if you need more control, especially if your dog shows any signs of aggression. Head halters are an effective way to control the position of your dog's eyes and head. You should release the tension when he is calm. Confine your dog to a room or crate before your company arrives. You can then bring your dog out wearing the head halter to begin the introduction process. Once your dog is comfortable with the
exposure exercises in your home, practice at the homes of various friends, and then in a wide variety of situations.
Making Progress Step by Step
Once your dog learns to accept unfamiliar people who move slowly and calmly, he should gradually be introduced to similar but progressively more challenging situations, including quicker movements and various tones of voice used by the person who is approaching. If there is risk of aggression, seek the assistance of a veterinary behaviorist before starting
these exercises.
Specific things about a person may make a dog anxious, such as beards, glasses, hats, carried objects, uniforms, canes, wheelchairs, and tone of voice. Pay attention to what makes your dog most anxious and avoid these stimuli in your initial training sessions. For example, if your dog is especially afraid of beards and glasses, wait until he is comfortable with people without beards and glasses before including them in the conditioning sessions. Slowly add accessories such as hats, large purses, sunglasses, and backpacks, and gradually change the type of person (for example, from a man with a beard to a woman with a walker).
If your dog is overly fearful or anxious, antianxiety medications, natural supplements, or pheromones may help him to be less distressed and to become happier and calmer. Discuss these options with your veterinarian.
Preventing the Fear of People
In most cases, dogs will not become fearful of people if they have ample opportunities to experience and interact with a wide variety of people under nonfearful conditions during the first few months of life, are frequently handled in a gentle manner, and are raised without harsh training techniques or physical punishment. Enrolling in puppy classes can be an
excellent way to ensure exposure to a variety of people, dogs, and environments. Puppies as young as eight weeks of age can and should be enrolled in classes designed for them and given by trainers who use only positive methods and avoid restraint and fear.